Swiss Cross

Ah, so nice! 

 In 2014 I had to sell my beloved Swiss Cross because I was moving and I did not know if and when I could have use my bikes again, and with the SC I sold almost every piece I had with me. 

Anyway, this Christmas I had the opportunity to buy a (not so cheap but) brand new frameset: https://avvsavv.blogspot.com/2021/02/two-special-guests-for-2021.html 

I actually spent a lot of time tinkering how to complete the bike. I did not exclude anything, even going for a flat bar. Eventually I went for a conservative 1x setup, with Sram transmission and a very nice DT Swiss wheelset. 

 Here it is:  

There are some items I don't still like. 

Pedals: very very nice PDM737, this were my first clipless pedals. And when I say my first ones, I mean that I used to have exactly this pair on my 1991 Giant Cadex CFM 1. 

Handlebar: too big, it's a Pro 46, probably good for a monstercross but not on this bike. I will go for a 42. 

Cables: omg, very bad workmanship here. Length is totally wrong. Will shorten them once changing my handlebar. 

Saddle: old Flite Max. Very comfortable but not what you'd expect here. I will go either for a classic Flite or for something new. 

I will spend some more time on it. 

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Stevens X8C trekking

OMG, just one word: trekking. Is it not enough just to close this post? 

Well, actually not really. I had a very good opportunity to get a 2010 Stevens X8C trekking bike. It was top of the shelf model for that year, coming with a 63mm travel Suntour front fork, completed XT groupset and somehow light aluminum frame, for a whoopie 11-ish kgs.

   

And

   

I initially thought about it only for the brakes (and possibly for the wheels), but then it was too much of a nice frame to try and sell it. 

I am currently waiting for a good and new set of Avid BB5 road calipers to set it up with a road handlebar (I am thinking to reuse the SPecy carbon handlebar coming off my Morati)  - thought I'd need a very short stem.

I have a feeling that the bike can handle bigger tyres than the 33 CX Schwalbe I have on it. 

I already swapped the crankset - originally coming in a 26-36-48 (ahh, so 90ies) with a 28-42. But I know that I could probably go up to 44. 

On the rear I am try to use a 105 SS derailleur with its 9s 11-32 cassette. 

Let's wait for the calipers and we'll see which way to go. 

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Springy Van Nicholas

I am not using my VN since ages, probably more than a year - not that I don't like it actually. 

So, a month ago I decided to take it apart, clean and lube it. While cleaning the stuff up, I noted that the crankset - old Ultegra from late 90's, was unacceptably scratched and the axle too worn. 

And this is how it started, ending up like:  

I had this Truvativ cranckset since ages. I think I used for a very short period (like: one single ride) on mostly all my frames. With a little help from Amazon, I bought a 42 narrow wide chainring, and this is how it started. The old chain was worn to what I think was the limit (.50mm), I used it a lot when riding in Dublin and is very understandable that it's time is over. 

Thankfully  the cassette is still very good, so I kept the SLX 11-36 10 speed. Paul Components still sits on my bar to help pushing a Dura Ace bar end shifter. 

 I wanted to have something... different actually. That's why I went for a flat bar, but not that flat after all. I used a very long (130mm) stem with a Ritchey WCS riser upside down. This gives to the bike a lower position than a standard bar, in between that and a drop:  

and

 

I know, I could have done it with hydraulic disc brakes, and this is actually where I want to go, but I am not yet that comfortable in bleeding the system. You see that the frame has closed eyelets, so I need to empty the brake system (if not new), and then bleed it again. I don't feel myself ready for this step!

To complete this setup I used KCNC bar ends (old NOS set I had with me since years) and Avid Black Ops levers. Again, these levers I bought probably around 2012 were sitting in my shed never mounted. I getting a bit... upset of having something and not using it, that's also another reason I went for mechanical brakes. 

I finished the bar with a yellow bar tape. I know, it's recycled, probably used 3 or more times, but then again you see how very good was Boardman bar tape! 

I also decided to swap the original fork (Kinesis carbon fork, disc only) with an old MTB titanium one. Axle to crown should be around 415mm, not really the original length, but it makes the geometry a bit more relaxed and probably closer to modern gravel bike. 

I tried this bike twice and I am having very good impression of the overall setup. This frame is very springy and comfortable, even though I have a very heavy and stiff wheelset.

I am wondering whether I should buy a newer and lighter wheelset... 

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P650b 1.0

Now, that's done... for now. 

I did not actually spend much time but rather I used the parts I had in my shed. I really wanted to try and see if a monster cross could even be an option (I don't really like sloping TT with drop - not even flares). 

So, first step was to recycle the 46cm handlebar I once used on my old Kona (remember, this one: http://avvsavv.blogspot.com/2018/04/kona-hei-hei-drop-bar.html). For the moment it don't need any changes, I would probably buy a set of Sram S500 levers if the setup is good enough for this bike, or -worst case scenario, will try and buy a right SRAM brifter (they are so expensive). I know that yellow does not match with Ritchey flag but this is the living proof that I was too lazy to change anything here. I used exactly as it was lying around! 

Wheels were the ones I used on my Van Nicholas with skinny Schwalbe Kojak a couple of years ago, with brand new Rapid Rob. I spent a bit of time on the brakes. I don't have hydraulic road levers, so I used some mechanical calipers I had with me. 

However P650b cable route comes from the upper stays and requires a banjo that can be turned upward... which is not available on mechanical calipers. 

I tried a not_so_neat floppy v-brake noodle and it actually worked well. I agree that is not the best option but is probably the cheapest (God forgive for that statement!). Again, transmission was a matter of recycling. Crankset is SRAM labelled, the old double I used everywhere but with a neat 38T eagle single chainring, cassette is a 11-46 Sunrace and the rear derailleur... Well, I started with a short cage Shimano 5700 105 level and it was actually almost capable to handle these jumps with the use of a small adapter (10 euro on Amazon - we'll see how much it will last) and additional adjustments. 

However I opted for a nicer Apex 1 which I found for what I think should be the right price (not yet showed in this picture). 

The bike is pretty nice and comfortable but I only rode it on tarmac and gravel for around 20 km. Hopefully the weather will be better the next few weeks to let me get around more frequently. Pictures below.

And

 

Ok, una e' fatta per adesso. 

 Non ci ho messo poi tanto a completare questo montaggio, d'altronde avevo gia' tutti i componenti in "casetta". Eppoi sin da quando ho comprato questo telaio, avevo in mente soltanto: monstercross - lo so, neanche io amo un tubo orizzontale sloping insieme at un manubrio stradale - neanche a parlarne di flares). Il primo passo e' stato riciclare il manubrio da 46 che avevo provato una volta sulla Kona (non scordiamocelo: http://avvsavv.blogspot.com/2018/04/kona-hei-hei-drop-bar.html). Per adesso non c'e' bisogno di nient'altro ma penso che semmai dovessi, inizierei a prendere una coppia di leve Sram S500 o addirittura una leva destra integrata di SRAM (SRAM e' cosi' costosa...). Lo so, il giallo non ci sta per niente con il tricolore Ritchey, ma questa e' la prova provata che non volevo davvero toccare niente... Il manubrio era bello e pronto! 

Le ruote sono sempre le solite che usavo sulla Van Nicholas con le sottili Schwalbe Kojak, ma adesso ci sono due Rapid Rob nuovi. Ho dovuto perdere piu' tempo per sistemare i freni. Non ho comandi stradali idraulici, quindi ho usato delle pinze meccaniche Shimano. Il problema e' che il cavo passa sui foderi superiori ed l'aggancio della pinza richiede un banjo orientabile... che non c'e' sulle pinze meccaniche. Ho meso un tubetto v-brake piegabile, non certo la soluzione piu' bella a vedersi ma in effetti funziona bene. Concordo sulla discutibilita' di questa scelta, ma non volevo proprio spenderci altri soldi. ANche la trasmissione e' un continuo riciclo. Ho ripreso la vecchia guarnitura SRAM che un tempo era doppia e ci ho messo sopra una singola SRAM Eagle da 38 denti. La cassetta e' una onesta Sunrace da 11-46 che funziona con un deragliatore Shimano 105 a gabbia corta. Il deragliatore, con quell'adattatore rosso comprato su Amazon e qualche altro piccolo aggiustamento potrebbe benissimo tener testa ai salti tra i pignoni ma alla fine ho trovato un deragliatore SRAM Apex 1 a buon prezzo e l'ho comprato (non e' in foto). 

La bici e' molto confortevole ma devo ammettere che l'ho pedalata su asfalto e terra battuta per circa 20km. Non appena il tempo sar' migliore, faro' qualche giro piu' lungo.

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Two special guests for 2021

 And yet we are, after so long since my last post.

This Christmas I got again into the thing, and decided to pull the trigger on a frameset, just for fun - and use all of these (mostly old) spares laying around my new shed.

I must admit that I actually bought two frames, just because the one below was somehow cheap on Amazon.

So, I ended up with two nice steel frameset to dress up:

I took my time to prepare these frames with some fogging oil (something I never did). This should help the tubes to stay healthier for more time.

I think that the P650b is now sorted - bar some minor adjustments should I decide to keep as it is. The Swisscross is still a work in progress, hopefully it will take no more than another week.

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Eccoci qui, dopo una lunga pausa dal mio ultimo post.

Per Natale ho trovato un bel telaio che ho comprato, tanto per montarci sopra i vecchi componenti che avevo sparsi qua e la'.

In effetti di telai ne ho comprati due, solo perche' uno e' venuto via con pochi euro su Amazon.

Quindi adesso i telai da montare son due!

Per la prima volta, ho impiegato il tempo per preparare i tubi, prima di montarli, spruzzandoli con abbondante olio. QUesto trattamento iniziale dovrebbe mantenerli in salute per molto tempo.

Penso che la P650b sia quasi pronta, a parte qualche piccolo aggiustamento. La Swisscross e' ancora sotto i ferri, spero di finirla presto.

_______________

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Frame geometry

While looking for (new) pictures of any Amazon Cross around the web, I came across Van nicholas official website and had a look oat the geometry of my frame.
Head tube is 72° and the seat tube is 73,5°, which is (I think) somehow normal but, going back to an old Morati catalogue, I found out that my HC 1.3 has 71°-73° that is incredibly closer to the current CX setup of my Amazon.
With a fork 1cm shorter (Crisp...), it can reach the same steep head tube angle.

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A couple of (not so recent) pictures

I'm lazy and I know it. I shot this pictures last month and they are still sitting onto my Flick account, waiting for me to write this (almost useless, I agree) post.

So, here it is, in it's almost latest setup (I took out the Restrap bag and the rear light).



I switched the front stem with a 120mm one (Brand X, good and cheap from CRC)


With these Tektro generic brakes, there are no probs with 28mm tyres (but I won't be able to use any full size mudguards...)



and



This is somehow a good idea, tried to place the rear light (with the help of a tiny P-clip) on the rear axle (using the fender bolt hole)



The biggest change here was going 1x. I took out both chainrings, front mech and its suport to use a narrow-wide 44 chainring (bought on eBay) along with a 10s 11-36 cassette.
Tightening the B screw, 105 rear mech can cope with the big cog. I may need a slightly shorter cassette but is not an issue, never had a chain drop since then.

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Crank Bros MXR pedals - rebuild

I have a pair of MXCR since ages but I never investigated whether they are rebuildable.
After a full winter, I thought it was the right time to service them just to discover that they are not serviceable.


I was slightly annoyed (I bought a rebuild kit just for them...), however it is actually possible to tear them apart, clean, lube and close them again. Perhaps they won't last enough for a third service but for sure you might be able to prolong their life

This is, roughly, the kit I used, along the pedal itselfç


Main topic is summarized in the below picture: the spindle is rolling over a very small set of ball bearings.


The process is somehow straightforward. Open the pedal, removing the plastic cap (which is normally a bolt on item but for these pedals is just a simple cap pressed on the hole).
Remove the nut) as you'd do with a usual Crank Bros pedal.


Given the status of the spindle,

I don't think that the pedals may survive another service, however there are a couple of takeaways I can share.
This type of pedals (along with their Candy-type cousins) are serviceable.
Tightening the closing bolt (or loosing it) may reduce any play.

Last but not least, there is another (maybe easier) way to help prolonging the life of your MXR pedals. Without opening the body, you can drill a little hole (3mm should be enough) on the plastic cap and, using a grease gun, injecting as much grease as you can (Mr. Cunningham, we all owe you).

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Kona Hei Hei - Drop bar

Since the beginning of March I've got back my old Kona Hei Hei 2-9.


This was an old 2009 model that I bought in 2012 (in used state).
I barely used it, back in the days. I raced just once with that (the year after I raced on a fully Rigid Niner EMD with a drop bar...) and cycled around my place a couple of times.

Once I got it back, I tried to sell it on the web but did't have any success so far.
I decided to move it a little bit on the road-ish side, as there is no real offroad here where I live. I had basically everything besides some good road disc calipers. Bought on Evans a pair of Shimano calipers and on Merlin Cycles a Tiagra brifters kit (were on sales, triple setup... why not).

The result is somehow close to some of the latest gravel experiment (plus size, slacker angles) due to the fact that this Kona is very old style. It has steeper angles (compared to modern MTBs), limited travel (80mm front, less than 90 rear).
The bigger issue may be the chainstays which allow a very limited choice of chainrings. Going 1x, the biggest ring is around 38 (to stay on the safe side).

I used the SLX chainset with a 38 narrow wide setup (taken from my Van Nicholas) with a 10s cassette (11-28... I know, I had a used chain which was too short for anything bigger than 28). Deda handlebar is 46cm wide (I don't really like flared bar), Tektro levers with Shimano 10s bar end shifters and it's done.
I didn't want to use the new Tiagra brifters just because I may not like this peculiar setup.
I expect to use it for everything, perhaps for a century next month.

Here are some pics:












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Boardman Team Carbon - 2018

You may remember that this very very moment, last year, I sold my Team Carbon (which, by the way, had a very respectable spec with full 105 and Mavic wheelset).
Well, I had a good opportunity for another Team Carbon, from 2014 (I believe) with a mixed groupset: Tiagra 4600 with a 105 rear mech and FSA BB30 crankset, so-so wheels (Mavic CXP-22S rims on unbranded hubs made by Formula) and a good carbon frameset.
I know that it does not make sense to buy a bike, then sell it and spend 3 months to try to buy it back. I just wanted another bike, that's it. I started thinking of just the frameset (a used Ritchey Logic or a brand new P29er both for the same price), but then I thought that I would be better start with a complete bike.
That's because I would ended up using it for commuting and is it a pity to throw a steel (even worse if brand new) frame in the grimy winter we have here.
The bike was ready to go since the moment I got that from the seller, no issues, not even inflating tyres. I just had to add mudguards and was ready to go.
I used it since Monday now and it seems slightly faster that my other bikes. I'm inclined to think that this is a placebo effect due to the new toy.
Soon I'll add some pictures.

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